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Moscow restaurant guide

Restaurant: Myasnoy Klub


Address: Ulitsa Kuznetsky Most 19
Metro: Kuznetsky Most
Phone: (495) 625-1729


Average cost: over $100
Cuisine: Fusion

Meat Club

Text by Charles W. Borden

Miasnoy Club (Meat Club), a Novikov creation, has taken over the space previously occupied by Biskvit, which opened in 2001 and became one of Moscow’s early fashionable restaurants. Minimal cosmetic changes were made to Biskvit’s aristocratic Napoleonic design, so it lacks the heavy hardwood and leather one expects from a steak house, as well as the signature Novikov design touches: a basket of lemons or a wall of uniform glass vases. Biskvit had been transformed into a poker club during the crisis when gambling was banished from Moscow. Apparently the authorities saw through the guise, so poker clubs are also are now prohibited.

It is located inside a small luxury mall on the north side of Kuznetsky Most. I had a little trouble finding it at first and wandered into the ‘19’ elitny gentlemen’s club at the end of a small alley, where I was quickly turned away by burly security.

Miasnoy Club has the imported meats one would expect from a highend steakhouse: Porterhouse (USA, Colorado at 4900 rubles for two), Ribeye Waygu (Australia at 2,500 roubles), and Veal on the Bone (Chianina from Tuscany at 4500 roubles). But the English menu provoked a comic interlude about the inability of many Moscow restaurants to spell the names of dishes for which they charge a Ben Franklin or more (Shateaubriant for example). How about ‘mushed potatoes,’ ‘smouked lamb,’ ‘vassabi sauce,’ ‘Greek salad own receipt’ or ‘eggs и cucumber’ to pick a few. Not as bad as the ‘leeches with caramel’ dessert, or the ‘large cocks’ we’ve seen on other menus, but you’d think they would bring in native speaker for a free lunch and a quick menu review before printing.

Elena Lyalshna, club chef, came out to discuss the meats with us. She has more than fifteen years with Novikov, and is a veteran of A-Club, T-Club, Grand Opera, Phantom and Angara. John decided to order a big plate of four of the main items under ‘Fried Meat’ (meaning grilled), the three named above and the T-Bone (Colorado at 3100 rubles), to be shared around the table. He made sure to specify medium rare since in Moscow medium steaks tend to be overcooked, without a shade of pink, apparently the Russian preference.

We also ordered some starters: Scallops with Tobico and Wasabi Sauce (800 rubles), very large, tender scallops with green flying fish roe; and Beef Tataki (850 rubles), very tasty thinly sliced rare beef coated with a sweet sesame and ponzu sauce.

Hilmi Hamwieh CEO of Uniret

Jan Heere GM of Zara Inditex

The wine list, though thin, had some interesting reds including a Napa Nook Cabernet Sauvignon 2004 (California) and Enea Gran Reserva Mugu 2001 (Spain), and not particularly expensive by Moscow standards. We tried these and finished with a super Tuscan Gaja Ca’ Marcanda Estate Promis (3100 rubles).

The huge tray of steaks arrived, sliced as John had requested. The Porterhouse was exquisite, one of the better steaks I have tried in Moscow. The other meats were reasonably good and despite the medium rare request, we still found them to be a little overdone.

We had no major complaints about food or the service, and the Porterhouse, Scallops and Tataki were very good. However, I found the ambiance out of place for a steak restaurant. Miasnoy Club has a good location near many of the top hotels, and it probably doesn’t hurt to have 19 as its neighbor – if to judge by the several millions of dollars of black autos parked on the street in front as we departed.


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