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Restaurant Review

Beauty and Loveliness
La bellezza salverà il mondo Feodor Dostoevsky
Charles Borden

Bellezza is a lovely restaurant if located below ground on Ulitsa Krasnaya Presnaya near the 1905 Goda metro station, next to Dolls. Jan Heere, John Ortega and I had a little trouble fi nding the entrance, but once we did we descended into an ornate, comfortable club and were warmly greeted by several staff members. We were shown through Bellezzas five separate dining areas, and fi nally, the Versace Empire VIP dining room, concealed behind a curtain at the far end of the restaurant. This room has been decked out with Versace creations from fl oor to ceiling, tableware to wall coverings. The few large tables in each dining room are set with expansive, carved wood, heavily padded armchairs. For accent lighting, the designers have substituted ornate draped and illuminated windows to make up for the lack of the real thing. Unfortunately, the big video screens that are present throughout and fi lled continuously with music videos mar Bellezzas sumptuous design. Thankfully, the music was kept to background noise levels, but the effect is like putting mirror sunglasses on a statue of the Madonna. Despite the modern afterthoughts, Bellezza is the place to go if you want to pay oligarch prices without the crowds or to get away for a romantic dinner or discreet business meeting.

The menu at Bellezza, prepared by Chef Lorenzo Strappato, is Mediterranean/ Italian. Chef Strappato was the subject of Passports chef interview in the August issue. Bellezzas (very) young sommelier, Svetlana Lapshina, a recent graduate of Moscows Enotria School, went over the broad wine list with John. He was happy to fi nd a couple of Australian Shiraz on the wine list, including the Wild Duck Creek Spring Flat Shiraz (6200r) imported by Australian PGA pro and wine expert Grant Dodd. Grant will be bringing several top Australian winemakers to Moscow in October and will guide the wine tasting for the November issue. The Spring Flat Shiraz is a dense, fruit-packed, chocolaty wine, an example of just how good Australian winemakers are with this grape.

We ordered an assorted cheese platter, which consisted of Gorgonzola, Parmesan, Pecorino, and Tallagio, served with honey and quartered fresh pears. I opened dinner with Chestnut Chowder (300r), a very tasty, creamy, chestnut color soup with soft and tender chestnut pieces, followed by the House Salad Contadina (330r). This salad consisted of fresh, full arugula leaves, quartered pears, grapes, Parmesan, and pine nuts with slices of tender grilled duck breast.

Jan Heere ordered the Beef Tartar (370r), but found it too spicy and left it unfi nished. He followed this with the New Lamb Kare from Chef Lorenzo (1250r); this stack of tender young lamb chops left him much more satisfied. John ordered Tagliatelle with Seafood (1000r) and Medallions of Black Angus by Rome Emperor Neron Royal (1600r). He declared the Medallions exquisite, and passed around a taste to the rest of us at the table; very welcome after seeing the meat and its presentation. I decided on pasta for the main course Fusilli Carbonara with Asparagus (450r), rich and creamy with thinly sliced lengths of very fresh asparagus. At our review meals we seldom get as far as dessert, but Bellezza became an exception when we ordered Homemade Ice Cream Semifreddo of Tropical Fruits (350r) topped of with several rounds of Lorenzos home prepared Lemoncello.

In conclusion, Bellezzas design is exquisite, the food excellent, but these attributes are sharply contrasted by the continuous video entertainment hovering over your head.

Bellezas prices are on par with other top end restaurants in Moscow, but it appears to be less well trafficked than others, providing quieter surroundings for a relaxing meal without the worry of seeing and being seen.

Restaurant Bellezza
Ulitsa Krasnaya Presnaya 23
Telephone: 7(495) 252-1214

Restaurant Bellezza

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