Restaurant Review

The Tradition of Goose Roasting

Chaine des Rotisseurs is the world’s oldest international gastronomic society. Though founded in 1950 in Paris, it traces its history to the “traditions and practices of the old French royal guild of goose roasters.” The Chaine has been active in Russia since 2002, first in St. Petersburg, and then Moscow beginning in 2005. Gerhard Mitrovits is the Bailli Regional (bailiff or should we say chief goose roaster) of the Moscow Bailliage (bailiwick or chapter). Membership is by invitation only. In addition to its non-professional gourmand members, the Chaine invites professional members such as chefs, restaurateurs and hoteliers.

PASSPORT Magazine caught up with the Chaine des Rotisseurs in June at Soho Rooms at the invitation of executive chef Laura Bridge. For the Chaine’s monthly Dinner Amicale, Ms. Bridge presented an “Asian Exotic Summer Theme.”

French writer Curnonsky was one of the big figures in Chaine history. Dubbed the Prince of Gastronomy, Curnonsky a prolific writer, particularly about food and wine and had a brief role in the history of Michelin guides. Curnonsky enjoyed eating, so much so that it is said that it took six friends to carry him out to his favorite restaurants each night. A pen name for Maurice Edmond Sailland, Curnonsky was derived from Latin for why not with a Russian “-sky” appended. However Curnonsky later said he was “neither Russian, nor Polish, nor Jewish, nor Ukrainian, but just an average Frenchman and wine-guy.”

PASSPORT is now also on the trail of the Commanderie de Bordeaux, which apparently in also now active in Moscow. The Commanderie is part of a worldwide network of 65 Commanderies in 15 countries under the overall patronage of the Bordeaux-based Grand Conseil du Vin de Bordeaux.