Fall/Winter 2009 catwalk report
It may seem an age away but fall will be upon us next month so, in an age of ‘chiconomics’ it makes sense to plan your wardrobe and make investment purchases on some key pieces. Before you hit the shops, here is our essential guide to the fall/winter trends.
Text by Heather Whyley
All things futuristic were huge this season. From body con dresses and graphic prints, to full on metallics, fashion has definitely taken a flight to outer space. Balmain led the way with figure hugging silver mini dresses with line details and structured pointy hips and shoulders. An ultra sexy look and already a celebrity hit. Kate Moss, among others, has been spotted in this Balmain collection. Giles sent suede trouser boots in a seventies colour palette down the runway worn underneath stiff-a-line skirts. His glossy black inflatable jacket looked like it had been fashioned out of an alien from a sci-fiblockbuster.
Hogg’s latest collection was reminiscent of the stage musical, Starlight Express’ stage costumes. Metallic lycra catsuits with bright stripes that echoed the body’s contours were worn with pale complexions and dark eyebrows. Not to be put off, translate this to your own wardrobe and head to Oasis for their monochrome galactic print dress, 2,866 rubles, or snap up a colourful kaleidoscope print top from Warehouse, 3,000 rubles. Beam me up.
The One Shoulder Dress
With the party season just around the corner, avoid any last minute outfit dramas now and invest with what’s set to be ‘the’ party dress.
Oscar de la Renta sent beautiful hot purple satin and glamorous red dresses down the runway with cinched-in waists and statement belts. Armani showed timeless floor length gowns in black and subtle metallics. Karen Millen has some stunning one shoulder dresses for that special occasion. The purple embroidered mini dress, 12,426 rubles, is bang on trend or the pink oriental print dress, 9,665 rubles, will turn heads. If you don’t want a dress try dressing up some trousers with the ruffled shoulder bustier, 7,349 rubles. Earrings are having their fashion moment right now so head to Oasis for some chandelier earrings with the ‘wow’ factor that compliment this neckline perfectly. Pink gem and gold earrings, 891 rubles.
Much like Moscow itself, this look dramatically combines traditional Russian prints and detailing with brash and sexy furs and glam accessories. Luxurious oversized fur coats were cinched in with jewelled belts and over the knee sexy boots at Pucci. Matrioshka-style folk embroidery and florals adorn full skirts and rich colors at Galliano. Dark muddy colored layers are mixed with lots of texture, long knitted scarves and shearling at Burberry. Whilst Anna Sui’s poms poms and braiding complimented the fur trim boots and Snow Queen coats. Wrap up warm with the new scarf, the snood (seen at Missoni, Mcqueen and Vivienne Westwood) and leave the high heels to the locals.
The Tuxedo Jacket
Long has it been an evening wear staple but, this season sees it return to the fashion forefront. A refreshing alternative to spring’s boyfriend blazers and biker jackets. Look for satin lapels and metallic sheens or dazzle with sequins. On the catwalk at Balmain, the tuxedo is given a harder rockier edge with studding and worn with a sequin zip mini and sharp buckled boots. Stella McCartney has designed a boxier shape that she’s slung over a white evening dress and black opaque tights, it gives the tuxedo jacket a fresh modern overhaul. Head to Zara for their studded lapel tux jacket, 3,799 rubles, or the white evening jacket, 3,599 rubles, and the black sequin trousers, 2,999 rubles, to get the look.
Normally the winter shows are an endless wave of dark and muted palettes but this season was studded with bright acid pops of color. Hot pink and electric blue were predominant but acid green is having it’s moment in the spotlight.
Kylie Minogue was showing her support for Dolce and Gabbana recently in a shocking pink satin number. At Dior grecian style dresses were revived with a splash of bright color. For the brave at heart Michael Kors offered a fluro yellow coat complete with neon fur deerstalker hats, the perfect antidote for a dull Moscow winter. Dune’s statement shoes will lift any outfit or add a block of color to your ensemble with H&M’s pink metallic mini skirt, 1,799 rubles.
This season is all about accentuating the shoulders. Who would have guessed that the Dynasty look would be back on the catwalks so soon. Thankfully, this time around the look has been given a modern, clean cut overhaul. The silhouette is an exaggerated hour glass. Shoulders are pointy with a nipped in waist or puffy and full sleeves are balanced by tulip skirts.
Aquilano Rimondi created sharp tailored separates and ruched taffeta sleeves on evening dresses. A fashion flashback to the eighties. Marc Jacobs was also channelling the 80s vibe with shoulder pad stuffed sweaters worn over brocade mini skirts highlighted with metallic accessories. His full on gold foil cocktail dresses and Charlie’s Angel style hair flicks completed the look.
For a subtler take on the shoulder trend Jenny Packham and Paul Smith were inspired by the 1920s and showed embellished shoulders in their collections. Beads and crystals were worked onto dresses and jackets with frills and ruffles for a glam evening look. Karen Millen has a spectacular dress with gem encrusted shoulders, 12,426 rubles, or for a casual take on the look, Topshop’s studded shoulder sweaters, 2,299 rubles, look great with a pair jeans.
This season’s versatile wardrobe staple was shown predominantly in white. Relaxed and lightweight at Chloe, blouses were mixed with black seperates for an easy to wear look. Stella McCartney sent billowing satin and full sleeved sheer blouses down the catwalk with ankle grazers, pumps and oversized clutches. Zara has done the perfect white shirt, slightly sheer with two large feature pockets at the front for 1,899 rubles.
It’s worth noting that Hareem trousers are still a big trouser trend but, this season sees them slightly more tailored than the summer. A tapered chino is a great start. Try Motivi for their ultra flattering classic chino, 3,450 rubles. D Squared teamed them with baseball caps and bomber jackets for a funky preppy look. Whilst at Chloe, a more grown up feel was achieved with high waist pleated trousers, perfect for evening.
These are here to stay and the heels are getting higher. Platforms were the order of the day. Burberry’s lace up biker style boots had a masculine edge and looked great with opaque tights and long wool coats. Ferragamo made a luxe detail out of shapely heels and golden platforms. Galliano, as only he can, went to the extreme with vertigous heels and cut out platforms. Kenzo’s purple and navy cream soled lace ups were refreshing amongst the sea of black footwear. Head to Aldo and Dune for the best choice of ankle boots.
Zara: 4 Tverskaya Ulitsa, www.zara.proskidki.ru
H&M: Metropolis, 16 Leningradskoye Shosse, www.hm.com
Aldo: Europeskiy shopping center, 2 Kievskaya Pl. www.aldoshoes.com
Topshop: Metropolis, 16 Leningradskoye Shosse, www.topshop.com
Mango: Metropolis, 16 Leningradskoye Shosse, www.mango.com
River Island: Metropolis, 16 Leningradskoye Shosse, www.riverisland.com
New Look: Metropolis, 16 Leningradskoye Shosse, www.newlook.com
Karen Millen: Europeskiy shopping center, 2 Kievskaya Pl. www.karenmillen.com
Dune: Europeskiy shopping center, 2 Kievskaya Pl. www.duneshoes.com
Motivi: Metropolis, 16 Leningradskoye Shosse, www.motivi.ru
Warehouse: Metropolis, 16 Leningradskoye Shosse, www.warehouse.co.uk
Oasis: Europeskiy shopping center, 2 Kievskaya Pl. www.oasis-stores.com